walking
We walk a lot. I never thought much about it until one day I noticed my socks were really dusty. So I turned my shoe over and saw this:

I bought these shoes new right before we left for Africa. $60 Dockers. Normally, I would never pay that much for shoes, but these were special shoes. They were comfortable, slipped on, matched all my clothes, and served as both “everyday” shoes and dress shoes; provided I washed all the dust off before using them as dress shoes. Basically I envisioned them to be my all purpose shoes; a perfect compromise between two principles that I hold in equal value: fitting in or “contextualizing” with the culture (most East Africans wear dress shoes everyday) and my personal preference of avoiding conventional dress shoes at all costs. For the most part they lived up to my expectations, but in Burundi I started to notice some serious wear on the soles. I decided to start wearing my tennis shoes as much as I could, with the hope that my Docker’s could make it through the year. This plan was working great until Christmas morning, when our team discovered we had donated most of our shoes to somebody’s criminal Christmas cause during the night. Fortunately, everyone had exactly one pair of shoes left. Lucky for me, my all-purpose Dockers were the one pair of mine that escaped donation (I’ve decided the best way to cope with theft is to consider it as a “donation.”) So I started wearing them everyday again, until the day my socks came out dusty and I realized just how much we walk.
In Burundi we lived close to downtown Bujumbura, so we walked everywhere. It saved money on taxis, and it was the best way to get to know the city. Now that we are living on a YWAM base, we don’t walk as much because we don’t have to leave everyday to get the necessities (food and internet). But when we do leave, it’s about one or two mile’s walk to catch the dalla-dalla to Arusha, and then we easily walk up to five miles around the city. Of course, sometimes we catch a ride with someone who has a car, and this cuts down the mileage substantially. But for the most part we’ve experienced East Africa on foot, and I don’t think I would have it any other way. It’s the best way to get close to a different culture, and you see and experience so much more then you would from a car-window. It also keeps us in great shape; I think I’ve probably lost around twenty pounds since we arrived. And, depending on the road, you might just get to your destination faster by walking anyway! Paved roads and sidewalks are about as rare as rhinos, which has made Land Rovers and other 4×4s the preferred (and sometimes only) means of transportation. This means walking is a lot more like hiking, even in the cities.
For this reason, after it became clear that I needed new shoes, I decided to look for some lightweight hikers; something with good soles that could hold up to the dust and rigors of Africa. Arusha is kind of a “Mzungu” town, so I had high expectations of finding something decent. I wasn’t disappointed; after looking through a few markets and small street shops, I found a small shop with some serious brands: Merrell, Solomon, New Balance, and others. I couldn’t believe it. Merrell and Solomon make some of the best hiking shoes in the world! I settled on a pair of lightweight Merrells and started bargaining. I was interested to see how expensive they would be; in the US they would easily cost between $100-200. The guy was driving a hard bargain; he definitely knew his shoes. In the end, we both got a great deal. I probably paid double what he would have charged a local, and about a quarter of what I would have paid in the US. How did those shoes end up there? Well, I can’t be sure, but I would guess they were stolen or left behind from Western trekkers who came to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. It’s the cycle of commerce: Westerners like me get their nice stuff stolen or leave it behind; an African businessman sells it; a different Westerner like me buys it for a fraction of what it would cost back home; the African businessmen makes a huge profit. Everybody’s happy, except for the guy who got his shoes stolen. Lest you think the African businessman always comes out on top, there is the reverse dynamic to consider: Africans grow coffee and make beautiful crafts; a Western businessman buys it in Africa for next to nothing and sells it in a Western nation for a huge profit. Ahh, Africa. Sure, the morality of my participation in this cycle is a little fuzzy. At least I will have plenty of time to think about it as I am walking the dusty streets of Africa in my new shoes.

